This is what you have to do when you realize too late that the stock kit had a very unauthentic frame assembly and you have to scratch-build the missing components after you already have the engine and suspension in place. I did experiment with building and the subframe before mounting the engine (like a real car!), but the engine wouldn’t clear the firewall.
For those of you considering modifying the Revell or Monogram 1/8 scale Jaguar, talk to me! For the most part, it’s a pretty good kit, but many of the parts and subassemblies are toylike in design. I’m really becoming a proponent of building a kit twice, especially if you’re planning mods–once without painting to familiarize yourself with the stock models idiosyncrasies so that you can plan your build, and then the actual painted build. For this build, I had to really go against the order of assembly laid out in the instructions.
One other recommendation: Don’t be like me, and make it up as you go! Settle on the car you want to model and the level of detail you want include, then stick to the plan. I’ve always been impatient and too in a hurry to dive into a project, and I pay for it with a lot of rework.
The real car.
Here’s a side-by-side comparison of my 1/8 scale Briggs & Cunningham Jaguar E-Type Le Mans Racing Coupe model interior and the actual car which is in a museum in Venice, Florida. Still a few things to add. Not happy with the steering wheel. I worked with the kit wheel by filling in the holes in the spokes, but I keep getting seams, and it cracked, and the spokes are too big. I’m debating about scratch building a new one.
Here is the progress on the Lucas Fuel Injection Meter installation on the engine of my 1/8 scale 1963 Briggs & Cunningham Jaguar E-Type Le Mans Racing Coupe. Here are a couple reference photos to show you what I was aiming at.
Here’s the Lucas Fuel Injection system I’ve been working on. As I mentioned in my last post, I started this model with a vague sense of the level of detail I would add toward modeling the 1963ish Briggs & Cunningham Jaguar E-Type Le Mans Racing Coupe. Well, I went all in! That meant re-work on the engine. So, here you see the 3D printed manifold, carbs, and trumpets installed, and the progress on the fuel meter. As you can see, there will be individual fuel lines going from the meter to the manifold.
Here’s an update on the slow progress of my 1:8 Scale 1963 Briggs & Cunningham Jaguar E-Type Le Mans Racing Coupe model car. The big challenge with trying to replicate this historical car has been finding reference photos. And, I started the build before I really committed to modeling this particular car, so there has been some rework. Sometimes I’ve guessed on a particular detail only to find another photo online that shows I guessed wrong.
Here is the rear interior of the car. I had to reference some other cars of the era to figure out the fuel system.
I’m roughing out body contours and the sheet metal seems visible on the real car.
Front and rear subframe assemblies. I had to start over on the front clip because I painted it black instead of white.
And here’s another development: my wife got me a 3D printer for Christmas. So, I’m redoing the engine with more accurate components I can model and print now.
I’ll take more pics soon of some other parts of the model.
My current model car build is a 1/8 scale Jaguar E-type race car based on the historical Briggs Cunningham 1963 Le Mans entry. The stock kit I’m using is the Revell Jaguar E-Type (XKE). Here is the racing fuel system I’ve scratch built, referencing the only photo I can find of that part of the car (the green on the model is photographing inaccurately). It’s from the Revs Institute/Museum in Naples, Florida.
This is a tricky build. Because the Jaguar is a monocoque construction, I’m going to have to paint the body with the car assembled, or paint the subassemblies separately and deal with seams after putting it together. Also, I’m changing the car from a lefty to a righty, so I’ve basically scratch built a new dashboard. I’ll show pictures of that later.
Here’s the engine so far:
I still need to add fuel lines and additional accelerator linkage.
Finally got the hobby stuff all set up in the basement of our new home in Atlanta, so worked resumed on my 1/12 scale ‘57 Chevy Gasser model car. I still have some more to do: door jam detail, parachute cords and cable, and touch-ups. Boy has there been a lot of touch-ups! Since I make things up as I go with only a general plan—and I’m old—I make a lot of goofs.
Although frequently interrupted by guitar making, playing, and other projects, work on my Monogram 1/12 scale 57 Chevy Gasser continues. As usual, I continue to improvise around my sometimes poor planning and blunders. Ivory white body color is going on, soon to be rubbed down to expose lots of primer.
Here’s my folding cardboard spray paint booth. Rolling table with a box fan on top is on the other side. I just open the garage door, turn on the fan and go to it. Shown is the front tilting bodywork for my 1/12 scale 57 Chevy gasser and two Telecaster bodies.
Back working on my 1/12 scale 57 Chevy Gasser model car. Planning for break lines before the chassis was assembled would have been much easier than the way I did—adding them later. I lost my religion many times but they turned out well.
Here’s some progress on my 1/12 scale 60’s era 57 Chevy Coupe Gasser being built from a Monogram kit. Seat is from a Corvette kit, the seat frame is scratchbuilt.
Painted the bolts semi-gloss black and dry brushed rusty red for effect.
Here’s an update of my 1/12 scale Monogram 57 Belair Gasser build. I’ve primed the undercarriage with red oxide Plastikote, and thin top coated with semi-gloss black paint. I then lightly rubbed edges with fine steel wool to age. Faux bolt heads and nuts are sliced styrene hex rod. When glue is cured I’ll finish sanding those and prime and paint them.
Here’s the modifications to the fenderwell headers I bought from Shapeways.com. I had to extend them to clear the frame. Also, I fabricated the framework for the tilting front clip.